Travel Agent recently sailed the Upper Mississippi River aboard Viking Mississippi. In our first story, we covered the first leg of the trip, from an overnight in St. Louis, up to Hannibal, MO. In this second article below, we talk more the ship and three Iowa ports of call.
As the Viking Mississippi sailed north along the Upper Mississippi River last month, Travel Agent delved into “the Iowa experience” at the ports of Burlington, Quad Cities (Davenport) and Dubuque. During this "Heartland of America" itinerary, we also gained more insight about this 386-passenger ship, launched in 2022, and Viking's American river cruise product.
Certainly, one top attribute of an Upper Mississippi river cruise is the opportunity to delve into mid-American culture and heritage. Floating from destination to destination, we viewed cute, historic downtowns, watched fields of waving grain in rural farmlands, and encountered friendly locals. Best of all, we experienced a river region that's less familiar and more "off the beaten path"—even to repeat river cruisers who've sailed on the southern Mississippi River, Ohio River or the Columbia/Snake Rivers of the Pacific Northwest.
Starting the "Iowa Experience"
Our first Iowa port of call was Burlington, incorporated in 1836 and today a community of 25,663 residents. One unusual claim to fame? In 1894, the town became the home of the “most crooked street in the U.S. It was created so locals could navigate a sharp gradient when traveling between a residential neighborhood and the business district below. Now known as “Snake Alley,” it’s even more crooked than San Francisco’s Lombard Street, according to the Guinness Book of World Records.
In Burlington, Viking’s guests can choose from five different shore excursions. As with other Mississippi River itineraries, transportation for shore tours is provided by Viking’s motorcoaches, which follow the ship along the cruise route. We thought the coaches were clean, modern and comfortable. Drivers were friendly and assisted guests, while guides providing tour commentary were either Viking ground staffers or local experts.
Good to know? In most destinations, Viking typically offers one shore excursion included within the cruise fare. In addition, there are optional excursions, available for an added fee.
In Burlington, for example, Viking's included tour was the two-and-a-quarter-hour “Historic Burlington” tour. Riding on a Viking motorcoach around town, guests learned about the town’s history and railroad heritage at Des Moines County Heritage Center. One plus is that this center is housed in a former Gothic Revival-style library. Also on tap during this tour was a visit to the Garrett-Phelps House Museum, an elegant, Victorian-styled structure with antiques and textiles. Before returning to the ship, Viking's guests also had the opportunity to snap selfies at the zip-zagging Snake Alley.
Throughout our week-long voyage, we felt that Viking offered excellent diversity in its shore options. Tours focused on everything from local history to agriculture, hiking, small-town life, art, culture, wildlife and ecology. Beyond the included "Historic Burlington" tour mentioned above, guests could select from four other Burlington optional excursions for an added fee:
- “Old Fort Madison” ($109) explored the Upper Mississippi River’s first U.S. military installation, opened in 1808. Viking guests listened to commentary by a Civil War expert, walked through interactive exhibits, and watched a flintlock musket demonstration.
- “Historic Nauvoo” ($69) delved into the town’s 19th century settlement by Mormon leader Joseph Smith and his followers.
- “Art Around Burlington” ($89) was a robust cultural option. It showcased local artists, provided a pottery/painting demonstration, and even created an opportunity for Viking guests to complete their own small art project.
Many guests, though, were city slickers seeking a quintessential, rural Iowa farm experience. So, they booked the fourth optional Burlington excursion—a “Hinterland Farm Visit" ($79). Reaching Hinterland Dairy, travelers learned that the farm's 160 cows dine only on feed from non-GMO crops produced only at the farm. They also gleaned information about the farm's sustainability practices that included no-tillage planting and diverse crop rotations. Guests who returned to Viking Mississippi after completing this Iowa farm visit—with plenty of close-up views of cows—couldn't stop raving about it.
Back on the River
As Viking Mississippi then sailed to its second Iowa port of call, Quad Cities (Davenport), guests settled back into life aboard. Most appreciated was the ship’s air conditioning, which worked well throughout our cruise. Summer temperatures were in the high-80s and even the mid-90s on many days, but on the ship, guests were comfortably cool inside.
Many relaxed with a book in the interior Living Room and socialized with fellow guests—trading tales of the day—over lunch. At lunchtime, full table service is available at the Restaurant on Deck 1, or guests can head for Deck 5's self-service River Cafe buffet.
Grill fare is also available at select times outside on the Aquavit Terrace. Pizza is served inside the River Café between 2 and 5 p.m. And for guests arriving back late from a tour or seeking pre-dinner snacks, a few snacks (such as tiny hot dogs wrapped in small buns) could be found outside the Explorers Lounge on Deck 1 between 4:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.
To get a sense of what guests can expect for lunch offerings in the Restaurant, here's a look at our menu choices for one day: Starters included wild berry creamed soup, chicken noodle soup or tomato tartare. Main course choices ranged from a grilled vegetable sandwich or pulled pork sandwich to maple bourbon salmon or spaghetti and meatballs. Viking's classic “always available” lunch menu included a Caesar salad, grilled tuna Nicoise salad, herb-roasted chicken breast and the Viking burger. Lunch desserts ranged from fromagerie to seasonal fresh fruit and ice cream or sorbet.
The Restaurant itself is an elongated dining room on both sides of the center, enclosed galley. So, the two separate spaces are narrower, more intimate in feel than if the eatery was open across the full ship's beam. We liked that. In addition, both sides offer floor-to-ceiling glass views of the exterior scenery.
After dining many times in the Restaurant during our week aboard, we felt this venue’s service, staffing level, food quality and ambience was excellent. We'll talk more about evening dining in our final Viking Mississippi story running soon.
Coincidentally, we learned that one Restaurant supervisor and several servers (as well as some other crew (including some members of the bridge team) formerly worked at American Queen Voyages, which ceased operations in early 2024. We’re happy to see Viking recognize their capabilities.
Throughout the ship, we felt the service and operations flowed akin to a well-orchestrated symphony—with crew members and officers who were friendly and yet professional. Yes, we know that there were some hiccups when this product began, but speaking to what we experienced on our sailing, we felt that the product chugged along nicely with the crew working well together to serve guests. And, by the way, 85 percent of the guests on these Mississippi River sailings are "repeaters" to Viking, according to the ship's cruise director Tim.
As for fun activities on board, he hosted such game and trivia events as “Majority Rules” or “The Big Quiz,” plus daily late afternoon guest talks/briefings. He also welcomed guests to a Viking Explorer Society party one day; that involved a drink and toast with the ship’s senior officers. And he hosted the “Nautical Locks and Dams Presentation” with Captain Corey Burke.
Beverages and Bars
For guests seeking bar service, the outdoor Aquavit Terrace Bar was open during our cruise from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., while the Explorer’s Lounge typically was open between noon and 11 p.m. Policy-wise, Viking offers complimentary house wines, beers and soft drinks with lunches and dinners. In addition, specialty teas and coffees are available 24 hours a day at coffee stations.
For those who'd like to upgrade and enjoy unlimited beverages, Viking offers a Silver Spirits Beverage Package, which can be purchase pre-cruise or once on board. One requirement? Both adults in a stateroom or suite must purchase it for the full voyage if one person desires to buy it. It costs $25 per night per guests, based on the length of the cruise portion of the itinerary.
Included for those purchasing this package are additional beers, upgraded select wines, spirits and whiskeys, premium wines by the bottle, cocktails, aperitifs and champagne. Plus, guests receive specialty coffee drinks, teas and juices throughout the day and enjoy an open bar during operating hours.
Not into alcohol, but seeking to socialize with friends in one of the onboard bars? That's perfectly doable. Within the Explorers' Lounge, for instance, we noticed that Viking offered three different mocktails at $5.50 each. Guests absolutely raved about the Coconut Lavender Lemonade mocktail, concocted from lemon juice, sugar, coconut water and lavender syrup. It was very good, but a tad sweet for our taste. So, on another day we ordered the Mint Julep mocktail made from fresh mint leaves, sugar, lemon juice, sprite and ginger ale, and we found it perfect—both tasty and refreshing.
Top Deck and Plunge Pool
For those who opt to stay on the ship during port days, or simply desire to soak up some rays after a morning tour, Viking Mississippi’s top deck offers multiple loungers on various levels; some have umbrellas for shade. Guests can also cool off in the top-deck plunge pool. Just know that it's not designed for swimming or diving, but rather for "dipping." This plunge pool is approximately three feet deep and is essentially a narrow band of water running across the ship's far aft area.
As the ship sailed up the Mississippi River, the ride seemed quite smooth. Many times, we didn’t even sense any movement. One reason is that Viking Mississippi was recently lengthened by 21 feet. That both reduced vibration (we have to say that we didn’t feel any, frankly, when sailing) and also enhanced the vessel's propulsion efficiency.
Quad Cities and Our Iowa Farm Visit
As the ship arrived at Quad Cities (Davenport), we wondered why the area was called Quad Cities? Yes, it’s a collection of communities on both the Iowa and Illinois sides of the Mississippi River, but the “quad” is a misnomer. At one point there were just three cities in the mix, then there were four, so when it hit five and so on, a decision was made to simply keep the name as Quad Cities.
Today, this Quad Cities area includes Davenport, Bettendorf, LeClaire, Eldrige, Silvis, Port Byron and Coal Valley, IA, plus Moline, Rock Island and East Moline, IL, plus many other towns and villages.
Many guests on our cruise revealed that they truly didn’t know that much about the area. So, here are a few factoids learned on our Viking cruise:
- For roughly 10 miles in the Quad Cities region, the Mississippi River actually doesn’t flow north or south—it flows east to west (between miles 490 to 480).
- Buffalo Bill Cody was born in LeClaire and lived there during his childhood years; the original homestead still stands today.
- The Quad Cities area has more than 15 craft breweries, and there’s a QC Ale Trail
- In 1837, Lt. Robert E. Lee surveyed the Mississippi River’s Rock Island Rapids for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers so that a channel could be cut through the rocks; he later became a general who commanded the Confederate Army during the U.S. Civil War.
(For more unique, fun facts, check out this Visit Quad Cities tourism website page, www.visitquadcities.com.)
One of the most popular excursions during our sailing was Viking's included "John Deere Pavilion and John Deere Homes” tour. Viking's guests visited the John Deere Pavilion, home to a wide array of both vintage and modern lawn and farm machinery. There, they gained insight into John Deere's history as they perused the company's green-and-yellow tractors, sprayers and construction hardware.
After the Pavilion tour, travelers then headed for a tour of one of the John Deere homes. They delved into the Victorian-era lifestyle and learned how the Deere family built their brand. Most guests who returned from this John Deere tour enjoyed it and were vocal about that as they socialized back aboard Viking Mississippi.
But for our day ashore in Quad Cities, we booked the optional “Iowa Farm Visit” ($79 per person). That included a scenic drive through Davenport to the countryside and then a visit to Cinnamon Ridge Farm. With a history of more than a century, this family-owned and operated farm produces milk, beef, pork and soybeans.
We entered the owners' farmhouse for a one-and-a-quarter-hour-long presentation including commentary, a slide show, short video and Q&A session. John and Joan Maxwell, co-owners of Cinnamon Ridge, talked to guests about agriculture in Iowa, the business of their family farm operations and how this particular farm combines tradition with innovation. For example, cheese is hand-crafted with care at the farm and yet high-tech, robotic machines milk the cows.
As for Iowa farm facts, we learned from the Maxwells that the state has 85,000 farms, 95 percent of which are family farms. The average farm size is 360 acres. Iowa also ranks first in the U.S. for the most corn, pigs and eggs. One staggering fact is that Iowa produces 2.5 billion bushels, or 63 million tons, of corn. Globally, among nations, the U.S., China and Brazil are the top corn producing countries, but if Iowa was its own country, it would rank number four.
After the presentation, our tour group ventured outside to see a farm machinery demonstration, before walking along a long lane to the dairy barn; the Viking coach provided transport for those who desired that. It's interesting to learn that Cinnamon Ridge grows diverse, nutritious crops to feed all its cows year-round. And in a symbiotic relationship, the cows then produce the rich manure that fertilizes the farm's fields, plus the manure is also sold as another farm product. Clearly, Iowa family farming is big business in many ways.
Entering the barn, we also peered through a glass viewing area to see the fascinating robotic milking operation. While excursion guests do view that milking operation from "behind" the milking machine, it's enough of a view to marvel at what's happening and how much of a time saver it is for modern-day farm operations.
Next, we watched through a separate glass window as two workers hand-crafted cheeses (cheddar and gouda, for instance) in small batches. Finally, to end the tour, Viking guests then headed up a stairway to gaze down on the dairy cow herd and also to sample cheeses paired with local beers and wines. Since there was no elevator in that farm building, workers delivered a plate of cheese and a drink to each guest who remained on the lower level.
Most folks on our tour enjoyed this Iowa farm experience. One fellow guest pronouncing it was “the best shore excursion I’ve ever taken.” It truly did offer a fascinating look at the business of farming. But from our perspective, we would have liked more “close-up cow time” and a bit less time spent in the farmhouse listening to the lecture about farm operations (perhaps 45 minutes for that presentation). That said, it was still an enjoyable journey into the heart of rural America. As urban dwellers, many of us loved telling friends back home that "we went down on the farm!"
Other Quad City excursions offered by Viking included the “Figge Art Museum” ($79) which has 4,000 works of art; the "Putnam Museum" ($79) which focuses on native American heritage in the Midwest; or “Quad Cities by Bicycle,” an active, guided bike tour along the Great River Road.
Return to Viking Mississippi
Arriving back in the urban area of Quad Cities (Davenport), our coach guide offered commentary about the city, and we toured a hillside residential area with many Victorian-era mansions. Then the coach motored through downtown Davenport to see the outside of the historic Adler Theater and other historic buildings.
Back aboard Viking Mississippi, we relaxed on our stateroom's private balcony. In fact, we popped out there throughout the voyage to photograph scenery or to see the locks that the ship was transiting. Unlike the southern Mississippi, this northward section of the river had high limestone bluffs, many locks, homes on stilts adjacent to the river at points, and few, if any, levies that we could see. It's a different region so not surprisingly, the scenery is different. If advisors have clients who've "been there, done that" on the Lower Mississippi River, then this off-the-beaten-path northern itinerary may be a good option.
During the Iowa portion of our "Heartland of America" itinerary, Viking’s onboard enrichment lectures included such options as “European Influences on the Midwest,” a presentation on the Norwegian Hardanger fiddle (reflecting Viking’s Scandinavian heritage), and “The Great American Steamboat Race.”
Speaking of Scandinavia, much of Viking Mississippi's onboard art reflects influences from northern Europe. For instance, guests will see traditional Scandinavian dresses on display near the entrance to the Restaurant. But the ship also has elements of American culture. as well.
Most notable? We discovered large Mark Twain-themed sketches and writings on the large wall adjacent to the atrium stairway, near the guest services desk. Guests can see a few of Twain's well-known characters and some of his printed words, as well. One nice touch? Guests will find a paper "takeaway" booklet in their stateroom or suite that describes some of the artwork aboard the ship; so, they can do their own self-guided tour, if desired.
Dubuque, Iowa
During our cruise, Viking Mississippi spent just a half day in Dubuque, the oldest city in Iowa, founded in 1833. (That was 13 years prior to the establishment of the State of Iowa.) The first permanent settler in Iowa was Quebec-born Julien Dubuque, a fur trader who befriended the Mesquakie Tribe upon his arrival.
Today, Dubuque is home to approximately 60,000 residents. From the top of the world’s shortest, steepest (funicular) railway, the Fenelon Place Elevator, travelers can actually see three states—Iowa, Illinois and Wisconsin.
One Viking shore outing in Dubuque was the line's complimentary shuttle service to take guests downtown. Viking's guests also received access to the National Mississippi River Museum and Aquarium on the line's self-guided, included tour. Multiple motorcoaches shuttled guests back and forth between 9 a.m. and noon. Tour tickets weren't needed; the coach schedule was available to see at guest services.
Another included excursion was the opportunity to head across the river for "Galena on Your Own." Nestled in a rural area of Northwestern Illinois. the small town of Galena is home to candy shops, ice cream parlors, spas and wine tasting rooms, as well as many 19th-century buildings. One notable site is the Ulysses S. Grant Home, a former residence of the 18th president of the United States.
Other optional excursions available during the Dubuque port call were: “Field of Dreams: An American Story" ($99); Stonefield Historic Site: Rural Wisconsin Farm Life; and another "National Mississippi River Museum and Aquarium” excursion (which differed from the included self-guided tour) with guided touring ($99).
Highly popular with architectural buffs was the optional “Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesen" ($219) excursion in Spring Green, WI. Taliesin, a National Historic Landmark, served as the architect’s private residence, studio and school from 1911 until his death in 1959. And finally, the optional “Art in Dubuque" ($99) excursion included a tour of sculptures along the riverwalk, a trip to St. Luke’s Methodist Church for a look at its incredible array of 105 Tiffany stained-glass windows, plus a visit to the Dubuque Art Museum.
Tip: Stay tuned for our final story coming soon with a look at the ports of La Crosse, WI, and Red Wing, MN, where Travel Agent visited the National Eagle Center, as well as our post-cruise stay and touring experiences in St. Paul, MN.
For more information about Viking including its "Heartland of America" itinerary, available on multiple dates in 2025 and 2026, visit www.vikingrivercruises.com.
Related Stories
VIVA Cruises Announces Advent Cruises for Winter
Riverside Luxury Cruises, Jerne Partner for Travel Advisor Fams
Transcend Cruises to Launch New Ships for Groups in 2025
Tauck, Approach Guides Partner to Release New Tech for Advisors